Using the Mattress memory foam takes care of all your worries. It is designed to keep the body firm while relaxing the muscles. Do not ask me how, but it was originally designed for astronauts use during their space travel and maybe that is why it is such a great mattress.

Buying a mattress from Mattressnextday.co.uk is like buying sound sleep forever. Using the Mattress memory foam is always a pleasure and people have found that the product is one which is really top of the barrel quality. Most mattresses in the class have a firmness of 8 or thereabouts and some have special design lie the Sealy Cumbrian Meadow which is layered with seven zones which helps knock out stress zones. This is priced at £413.99 for the double and £553.95 for the King-size (5’). You could add to the comfort of the bed with a pillow that is hand tufted and micro quilted. A good sleep is the best gift that man could have and if one chooses wisely one will benefit from it. It is good to make the ends worth the effort that you put in!

Insulatedrollergaragedoors.co.uk is a perfect site to log in to order for insulated garage doors. Purchasing and using an insulated roller garage doors for your garages will be a very good choice as they are quite secure and even stylish too. Your garage gets an amazing look by using these insulated roller garage doors. If you make a purchase of these doors online, you can enjoy an exclusive discount up to 50% on the actual prices of these garage doors. They need extreme low maintenance and are easy to handle in all conditions. These doors offer an extreme stylish looks to the garages as they are available in numerous colors and lavish styles. Happy shopping over here and enjoy huge discounts!!!

However, if the working conditions are different from the ones presented by you on the prone, and the objects stated in the contract are larger, the company might require a higher price. If you have forgot about some small packages and objects, in the limit of 0.5 cube meters, the company will settle for the established price. The larger packages and furniture pieces that are different from the ones stated will cost you some more money.

The date and the hour of the movement remain the same. As sometimes the traffic is difficult in Miami, you are allowed to be late 30 minutes, but the movers have the same right. If the representatives of the company are late with more than 30 minutes, you are entitled to a discount of 5 -10 % of the sum, considering the nature of delay and the causes.

You will need to state all the large objects that must be moved, and an evaluation of the volume of the remained items and boxes. This way, the moving company is able to establish the number of movers needed, the volume of the trucks, and the estimated time. If the objects presented are different, the moving company might only move the objects presented by you on the phone.

For a lot of people getting a decent looking bay window curtain is somewhat difficult because they don’t know where to look but just know that you can find them in many different places. The problem that most people have is they are trying to look for actual bay window curtains when in actuality they should just be looking for regular curtains that are the size you need. The reason I suggest getting curtains that are the exact size that you need is because they will be cheaper and most stores will have them in stock.

One thing that I think you should know about bay window curtains is that they don’t have to sit flat against the glass. Most people think that curtains are supposed to sit flat against the glass but the truth is that you can simply take 1 big curtain and cover up your bay window. The nice thing about bay windows is that they go out, this makes everything a lot easier on you.

One last thing that I want you to understand is that you don’t need curtains on your bay windows but it will make your home move private and in this day and age, that is what everybody needs. Just know that egress window comes in many sizes and shapes and because of that you will have to find the right kind of curtains for them. Trust me, this might seem like a difficult task but once you start looking you will see that there are a lot of curtains out there for you.

Pests

Analyze and treat pest problems as they arise. For difficult-to-diagnose problems, take a sample to a local nursery or extension office for help.

The best cure for pest problems is prevention. Healthy plants resist disease and pest problems. Purchase plants and seeds that are disease and pest resistant – check the packaging labels for specific resistances. Disease and pest resistant varieties are marked in most catalogs and nurseries. Nurseries can usually provide additional information.

Maximum plant growth can be achieved by providing plants an optimum growing environment. Make sure vegetable plants receive the right amount of sunlight. Most require full sun for at least 6 hours or longer each day. Prepare soil properly, allow proper drainage, and irrigate only as needed.

Before treating pests with chemical controls, try mechanical controls first. A sharp hoe is still the best weapon against weeds. Hand picking and disposal of insects is often sufficient for control. If chemical controls are needed, diagnose the problem carefully before applying anything. Many pests in gardens are innocuous, causing neither damage nor benefit. Others, such as honey bees are beneficial and should be protected. Some insect pests will be controlled over time by predatory insects such as ladybug beetles and preying mantises.

When chemicals are required, use them according to the directions on the label to avoid harming pets or people.

Monitor plants for signs of pests or disease. If more than half of the plants of a certain variety appear sick, strong measures may be needed. Check the tops and bottoms of the leaves, the stems, the flowers, and the base of the plant.

Look for the following:

• ** Bugs on the leaves, stems, and branches of sick plants
• ** Droppings on the plant or on the ground around the plant
• ** Loose soil mounds around the base of the stem
• ** Leaves which are wilted, yellowed, spotted or curled
• ** Holes or chewed areas on leaves
• ** Leaves with webs or a white, sticky, or shiny substance on them
• ** Sap oozing from stems and branches
• ** Blackened, wilted or chewed stems

Diseases

Disease organisms include fungi, bacteria and viruses. The most common disease problems found in this area are caused by fungi.

• ** Prevention is the best solution to these problems.
• ** Provide healthy growing conditions to encourage vigorous, healthy plant growth.
• ** Crowded plants trap moisture which encourages the growth of disease organisms. Proper plant spacing can be achieved by careful thinning.
• ** Move plants around in the garden. Although they are not moving far in such small plots, crop rotation still has some benefits for vegetable crops.
• ** Clean up the garden to remove materials which may harbor disease organisms.
• ** Purchase disease resistant plants. New varieties with resistance are constantly being added to the market.
• ** Avoid spreading disease. When handling diseased plants, clean tools and hands before handling other plants.
• ** Control can be difficult, so in most cases it is better to remove diseased plants and discard them where they will not spread disease organisms.
• ** If the problem is chronic or widespread, identification may be needed. Take samples to a nursery expert or extension office for help in identifying and treating the problem.

Weed Control

Weeds are a continual problem in any garden and are a common yard-care concern. To control weeds is to wage an ongoing battle. Besides detracting from the landscape’s appearance, weeds may shade out desirable plants and take nutrients from them. Weeds can literally starve out other plants and reduce both the quality and quantity garden yields.

Weeds also aggressively use water. A water conservation tip: remove weeds from the vegetable gardens and flower beds so that less water is needed to grow desired plants.

Prevention is the easiest weed control. Give plants and seeds a head start on weeds by preparing weed-free seed beds and planting transplants and seeds during their ideal season with adequate fertilizer placed near the roots. These plants will grow quickly and can become established well ahead of the weeds.

Over watering perpetuates weed growth. Weeds grow best in moist, fertilized soil. Drip systems and fertilizer banding place water and needed nutrients where desirable plants can use them. Let weeds fend for themselves.

Layers of grass clippings, straw, twigs, and leaves smother many weed seedlings. Plastic is an excellent mulch. Black effectively controls perennial weeds but clear plastic encourages rapid vegetable growth. Clear plastic may need to be lifted once or twice during the summer to remove weeds that use it for a greenhouse, but the heat generated under the plastic in midsummer will burn off many seedling weeds.

Weeds are either annuals or perennials. Annuals only grow for one season, but they tend to produce seeds prolifically. Allowing them to mature aggravates the problem as they spread through the garden.

Weed plants enter surreptitiously, almost unnoticed, if a gardener is not paying close attention. They do not begin three feet tall, however. Pull seedling weeds in plant rows while they are small so they don’t dislodge or damage the roots of other plants. The easiest time to dislodge weeds is after watering, while the soil is moist.

The best tools for weeding are hands, a hoe, and a cultivator. Be sure to remove the entire plant and root system of the weeds. Removing just the top does not kill the weeds. Remaining roots often send up another shoot.

Never underestimate the value of a hoe — particularly when dealing with seedling weeds. Someone may or may not build a better mousetrap, but plenty of creative minds have gone to work improving on hoes. Hoes come in a wide range of designs from the old fashioned chopping blade attached to the end of a handle to a wide assortment of cutting blades set at various angles to slice off weeds below the soil surface.

Slicing types work by gliding the blade through the soil so it cuts off the plants below the ground. It isn’t necessary to remove the entire root system provided the plant is cut off below the stem. The bigger weeds that sneak into less cultivated areas of the yard may need attention from a shovel or chopping hoe.

Never let weeds go to seed. An old garden saying is, “one year’s seeds makes seven years’ weeds.” That assessment is on the right track but is not entirely accurate. Some seeds can lay dormant in the soil for 25 to 50 years and still sprout and produce a plant! But each weed removed before it goes to seed, removes the potential for hundreds or thousands more weeds to grow next season.

If weeds do take control, there are some very effective herbicides on the market. Use only when other measures are not effective. Pesticide use and recommendations for various areas are constantly changing. Check with your county agent for current recommendations.

Pay close attention to labels before purchasing these products. Labels will tell you which plants the chemical controls, which plants it does not harm, how to use them, and the length of residual effect. Timing is essential, too. Some products, such as 2,4-D, vaporize in hot weather and may damage other plants some distance away. Choose products that are compatible with the needs and goals of the garden.

Some herbicides are selective to certain types of plants. For example, fusillade, found in Grass-B-Gone® and similar formulas are formulated to control grasses around many ornamental plants. 2,4-D, found in a number of products, is effective to remove broad-leafed weeds from lawns and grassy areas.

Other herbicides, such as Surflan, Treflan, and Dacthal are effective in established plantings as weed barriers. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO LABELS. Some of these types of herbicides may damage certain types of plants, while others may not be safe on food crops. Some barriers have a long-term residual effect and may damage trees or other crops many years later.

Some perennial weeds such as quack grass, field bindweed (morning glory) and white top are very difficult to control without the use of herbicides. If an area is very seriously overrun with these weeds, it might be advantageous to postpone planting a vegetable garden and spend a season working on controlling them first. It is hard to treat difficult weeds with herbicides and avoid damage to nearby plants.

Covering the soil with plastic sheeting or heavy mulch for a whole season can help to kill these weeds. Herbicides can work well on certain problems but they are not selective killers so be extremely cautious in using them. They can also harm pets and people.

Glyphosate is a useful and fairly safe product found in various dilutions in Round-up® (40 percent), Knockout® (6.6 percent), Kleenup® (5 percent) and other brands. Glyphosate is non-selective which means it will kill nearly any green plant it touches. It is very effective on perennials. Placement is everything, but be sure to put it only on the plants you wish to control.

The best time to treat perennial weeds in vegetable gardens is after the frost kills the tomato vines. At that time, perennial weeds are metabolizing nutrients into their roots to maintain the plant through the winter. They carry the glyphosate into their roots along with the other nutrients where the glyphosate can work on them.

Difficult weeds get a lot of attention because they are so tough to get rid of. Herbicides are often required to control deep-rooted perennials. But the vast majority of intruders are annual weeds. The safest and most effective controls for them are cultural practices.

Consult a local nursery about specific problems you are having; take in a sample of the weeds and have them identified so you can determine the right course of action.

To grow a vegetable garden, irrigation is a necessity. It is ironic that in dry environments, one of the most common causes of plant death is excess water. Studies show that as a rule, two to three times more water than is actually needed is applied to plants. Appropriate water application promotes good plant health and water conservation — both worthy goals for the home gardener in any environment.

It is important to use water-saving gardening methods from the beginning of the garden season to insure a healthy harvest of crops. Watering schedules are dependant upon climate and weather. The best way to water vegetables is to irrigate thoroughly, then let the soil dry out between applications. The water should reach six to eight inches deep to the roots of the plants. Use a probe or your fingers to check how deep the water is reaching. Let the soil dry out a little before watering again; over-watering will cause the plants to rot. The best time of day to water is in the early morning because it gives the leaves a chance to dry while the temperatures are warm.

Water is a most precious natural resource. It is very important to do all that is necessary to preserve and protect local water supplies. Each day over 82 billion gallons of water are consumed in the United States, of which 7.3 billion gallons are for domestic use.

Less than one percent of that water is used for irrigating landscape plants and maintaining the environment for those plants. In desert regions, the percentage of water used for irrigation is higher than in other areas, but growing healthy, bounteous gardens, while conserving this precious resource, is still possible.

1. Condition plants for dry weather from the beginning of the season by irrigating less frequently but longer. Nurture tender transplants with frequent irrigations. Gradually over a period of a couple of weeks, decrease the frequency and increase the water penetration at each watering to encourage deep rooting. Deeper root systems will be more drought-tolerant. Avoid light, frequent irrigations which promote shallow rooting and the need for continued frequent irrigations.

2. Use mulches freely in the garden. Compost, bark, shavings, sawdust, and many other mulches are excellent choices. These not only prevent evaporation from the soil surface, but will also help control weeds. Weeds are a major cause of water loss from the landscape and may actually consume more water than the landscape plants. Some vegetable crops develop conditions such as blossom end rot when subjected to alternating wet/dry cycles.

3. Apply water through a drip irrigation system if possible. Drip irrigation systems apply water only where needed and reduce water loss due to evaporation. As an additional benefit, drip systems do not moisten the space between the rows, reducing the opportunity for weeds to grow.

4. Water during the early morning hours or at night. During these hours, temperatures are the lowest and winds are generally less intense. This reduces the amount of water loss to evaporation.

5. Check water frequently. Application times and amounts should be carefully monitored to avoid runoff. Water slowly enough to allow moisture to penetrate at least 6″ to 8″ into the soil.

In the heat of the summer, apply approximately 2 to 2 1/2″ of water to the soil each week for most plants. In cooler or rainy weather, apply less water.

Over-application of water not only wastes this precious natural resource, but also does a great deal of damage to the plants by increasing problems with root rot and fungal diseases.

Furrow Irrigation

Furrow irrigation is a traditional method of watering particularly suited to straight row planting. Dig a furrow – a small, level, shallow ditch – alongside of, or between, vegetable rows. Water enters the furrow at one end and seeps down into the soil to the roots of the plants. This is the least efficient method of irrigation, but when ditch irrigation water is available, it is widely used.

Sprinklers

Built-in sprinkler systems work well and are particularly useful on large gardens. When sprinkle irrigating, measure the amount of water released by sprinklers. Place tall, straight-sided cans at various spots in the area covered by sprinklers. Check in thirty minutes to see how much water has collected in the cans. Divide the amount of water required per week by the amount in the cans and multiply that number by thirty minutes to apply the correct amount of water. Timers on sprinkling systems can be set to provide appropriate amounts of water using these findings.

Drip Irrigation

Done correctly, these systems are the most efficient watering methods because water is applied only where it is needed – near the roots of the plants. Water drips through holes in tubing or from emitters on tubes directly onto the soil. Run drip systems for a few minutes before planting to mark the areas where plants should be placed for optimum watering. These systems are usually installed on a timer. Drip systems water very slowly and may need to run for several hours to let water soak deeply. However, less total water is used and no water is wasted to run-off or evaporation. If plants in a certain spot begin to wilt or grow more slowly than others, check the hose to make sure it is not plugged.

Hand Watering

Hand watering is not a very effective way to water because proper watering requires deep soaking. Most people who hand water will not spend enough time to saturate the soil as deeply as they should. Occasional hand watering can be useful as a way to check on plant progress or to offer supplemental spot water to thirsty areas.

Fertilizing

Gardeners sometimes erroneously think of fertilizer as food. Because of this thinking, gardeners often want to add large amounts of organic matter and fertilizers to their soils to make them more productive. Through photosynthesis, plants manufacture their own food. Fertilizers are salt materials that provide nutrients for the plants to use in manufacturing their food. Organic matter should be considered as a soil amendment to help improve soil structure.

Concentrated inorganic fertilizers may burn plants and add unneeded salt to the soil. When using these products, use the least amount needed to add the required nutrients. Adding more organic materials will generally only improve the soil.

Fertilizer Composition

Plants utilize many elements for healthy growth, but the three most important are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Commercial fertilizers list the percentage of each of the components inside the fertilizer mixture. They will be listed in order, with nitrogen represented as the first number, phosphorus as the second and potassium as the last. For example, if the label lists 10-10-10, the fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 10% potassium. The other 70% is a carrier that allows the fertilizer to be spread evenly into the soil.

Fertilizer is used to provide nutrients that may be inadequate in existing soil. Plants that grow slowly, are stunted, have pale or discolored leaves, or straggly growth, probably need a fertilizer.

Inorganic fertilizers provide nutrients much more efficiently than mulches, composts and manures. Providing needed nutrients requires several hundred pounds per thousand square feet of organic material.

Complete fertilizers contain all three of the essential nutrients in varying percentages. A caution about complete fertilizers — they can cause phosphorous buildup. Always read the instructions carefully and apply as recommended.

The accompanying chart gives the relative amounts of nutrients of common organic amendments and also the amounts of nutrients of some common fertilizers.

There are many types of fertilizers and many ways to apply fertilizer. It is best to keep on a recommended and regular fertilization schedule, rather than waiting until your plants begin to suffer.

It is important to note that garden vegetables have varied requirements for fertilizer components. Most require fertilizer at planting time to help initiate healthy growth. Some, such as tomatoes, should not receive more nitrogen fertilizer during the growing season as it promotes vine growth at the expense of fruit production.

Nitrogen (N)

Nitrogen (N) is responsible for green growth in plants. Apply nitrogen in the spring to encourage new growth. Nitrogen deficiency is marked by yellow or pale leaves on the oldest part of the plant. While some vegetables require the addition of nitrogen during the growing season, others will not set fruit properly if they get too much nitrogen. Fertilizer supplementation specific to each plant is included under the individual plant information sections of this software.

Phosphorus (P)

Plants use phosphorus (P) in developing a healthy root system, flowers, seeds and fruits. Phosphorus deficiency is manifested by plants that grow slowly, or stems and older leaves that show a reddening color.

Potassium (K)

Potassium (K) helps the overall growth of the plant and makes the stems strong and resistant to diseases. If your plant’s stem can’t hold its leaves and blossoms, or if the older leaves begin to brown around the edges, it may need more potassium.

Formulations

As the name implies, dry fertilizer comes in granules, powder or pellets which can be scattered or worked into the soil. It is partly soluble and dissolves with irrigation to spread through the soil.

Liquid fertilizer is fertilizer that dissolves completely in water to quickly provide nutrients to leaves and roots. It can be applied to leaves and soil in watering, or will flow through drip systems.

Foliar fertilizer is used as a spray on leaves. Nutrients are absorbed directly into the tissue and put to use immediately. Use only when weather is cool as it may damage leaves when used in hot weather

Time-release fertilizers are encased in tiny round capsules that dissolve slowly over a period from three to fourteen months. As the capsules dissolve, the nutrients are released to allow for constant feeding rather than the cyclic ups and downs of other fertilization methods.

Special-purpose fertilizers contain specific fertilizer blends suited to particular plants. They may be more expensive than other types.

Natural organic fertilizers are created from materials derived from plants or animals such as manure, bone meal or fish emulsion. They release slowly, are generally low in nutrient content and tend to be less balanced.

Micronutrients

Zinc, manganese, iron, and other elements are known as micronutrients because they are required in very small amounts. Micronutrients are not required on a regular fertilizer basis, but are added when plants show symptoms.

Iron is the most common micro-nutrient deficiency in alkaline soils. Iron deficiency is known as chlorosis. It is typified by yellow leaf margins between veins and in severe cases, leaves may wither and die.

Micronutrient deficiencies can be difficult to analyze. If you suspect your plant is deficient in micronutrients, take a sample to your local extension agent or professional nurseryman for help in diagnosis.

The key to a bountiful harvest is variety. It requires no more time to plant, weed, and water well-adapted seeds than it does with less productive varieties, but the outcome is much improved. Choose the best varieties and pay slightly more money, if necessary, to get increased yields of high quality vegetables for the same effort.

Selecting seeds from the thousands available can be a puzzle. Check with your local county extension office for a list of the best performing varieties for your area.

Some seed packets carry the “All-America Selections” label. The AAS is a non-profit organization that tests seeds by growing them in a variety of soil and climate conditions nationwide. Only those found to perform well under a variety of conditions and produce crops superior to other top selections on the market earn the prestigious AAS seal.

Planting Seed Outdoors

Moisten garden soil before planting. Plant seeds according to the directions on the seed packet, 1 1/2 to twice as deep as the diameter of the seed, in parallel rows far enough apart to allow space to work and for plants to grow.

Tap small seeds directly from the packet or rub them between your fingers to spread. Plant larger seeds individually. Cover with soil and water carefully to avoid washing the seeds out.

Create furrows for small seeds by pressing soil with the edge of a board or stick into the soil. Cover fine seeds with potting mix to avoid crusting. Larger seeds will generally grow through garden soil. For intense heat in summer planting, provide some sort of shade for the new seedlings.

Incorporate a complete fertilizer into the soil or bury it in bands two inches away from the seed row and about three inches deep. Complete fertilizer has nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium expressed in numbers on the packages as percent plant food content. A good analysis for a complete garden fertilizer is 16-16-8.

As seedlings reach about three inches in height they are ready to be thinned.

With the exception of tomatoes, most plants benefit from nitrogen fertilizer applied near the base every four weeks. Use 1/3 cup ammonium nitrate, 1/2 cup ammonium sulfate or 1/4 cup urea per ten feet of row.

Water your garden whenever the soil surface dries out. Seeded rows require frequent light watering, but you should reduce the frequency of watering and increase the quantity of water as the season progresses to develop deep root systems that will withstand heat and drought.

Keep weeds out. Despite a myriad of sprays on the market, the best weed control is a hoe. Getting rid of seedling weeds isn’t a major chore. Visit the garden often with a hoe in hand.

Insect control can often be accomplished by hand as well. Mechanical controls or hand labor are advisable unless a crop becomes severely infested. Pesticide use and recommendations for various areas are constantly changing. Check with your county agent for current recommendations. A nurseryman can help find the right product. Always check the package labels for the types of insects the product controls and for the types of plants for which it has been approved.

Planting for Transplants

Plan for starting transplants by counting backward from the day you might expect to plant them outside. Determine the time required for seeds to germinate and develop into acceptable transplants. Count back that many weeks from the expected last frost date. Plant seeds so they will have time to develop before placing them in the garden.

Crops in the cabbage family develop transplants in four to five weeks. These crops can be set into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked – about six weeks before the expected date of last frost. Count backward from that date to start transplants.

Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants require about six to eight weeks from seeding. These plants should be planted when the soil is warm, ten days or so after the date of the last frost until mid-June. With proper temperatures, tomato seedlings may appear in four to six days, but peppers may require ten to fourteen days. If conditions are a little cooler, seedlings may take a bit longer to germinate.

Allow about four to five weeks for cucumbers and melons to reach transplanting maturity. Cucumbers can be planted outdoors on the date of last frost, plant melons about two weeks later.

Transplant shock sets these transplants back a little. The seeds often catch up with the transplants, seem just as healthy, and produce just as quickly. Timing is everything. If melons become overgrown in the pot, they tend to do poorly all summer.

Starting Transplants

The best soil for starting seeds is loose, well-drained, fine textured, sterile, and low in nutrients. Many of the best starting “soils” are soil-less mixes. Various starter mixes are available in stores, as well as labor saving peat pellets.

When uncertain about which is best, ask a reputable nursery to sell you some of what they use.

To make homemade potting soil, mix 1 part sand, 1 part sphagnum moss, with 1 part perlite or vermiculite.

Place the soil in a container. A 4-inch flower pot may be seeded with eighteen to twenty seeds. Cover seed with about 1/4 inch of the potting medium and place inside a plastic bag or cover with plastic. For the seeds to germinate, they must have moisture. Lightly water the trays or containers.

Close the plastic covering so moisture doesn’t escape and place them where the temperature is right for germination. Sun isn’t necessary for most seeds to germinate. Check the seeds daily. As soon as they emerge, remove the plastic immediately and put the container where it will receive plenty of light.

The ideal transplant is dark green, stocky, and healthy looking. Three factors are essential to develop such plants – adequate sunlight, proper temperatures, and fertilizer. Spindly plants are probably the result of too little light, high temperatures, and/or lack of fertility.

Getting enough light is essential to keep the plants from getting long and leggy and to prepare them for the intense sun they will encounter in the garden. A fluorescent fixture about four inches above the plants provides adequate light for good growth. Raise the bank of lights up keeping it four inches above the plants as they grow.

After the plants germinate, expose pots and seedlings to lower temperatures (about fifty-five degrees at night and sixty-five to seventy degrees during the day). Water when the soil becomes dry to the touch and add a soluble fertilizer to the water weekly.

When seedlings get their first true leaf, separate them. Thin plants in jiffy pellets to one per pot. Moisten and loosen soil in flats, pots, or trays using a dull knife blade. Take hold of the plant by a leaf and lift it out of the soil and separate it carefully from the others. Do not lift the tender plants by the stems because if the stems break the plant is no longer useful. Damage to a leaf may not render the plant useless.

Place the plant in prepared potting soil and give it plenty of sunshine, protect it from the wind or frost, and continue fertilizing the plant until it is time for transplanting. About ten days before transplanting, harden the plants by exposing them to cooler temperatures. Put them outside for a short time in the morning and increase the time outside each day.

Check the pots often to make sure they don’t dry out and do not let the plants wilt in the sun and wind. Potted transplants outdoors may need frequent watering since the pot won’t hold enough water to support heavy transpiration. However, do not keep the pots soaked.

Mid-Summer Planting

Midsummer is a good time to think about planting garden crops for fall harvest. Spring is not the only time for planting crops. Success in mid-season planting depends on planting the right crops. Midsummer is too late to plant winter squash, melons, tomatoes or other crops that require a long season for harvest. But many of the vegetables planted early in the spring develop quickly and are harvested by mid-summer leaving empty space in the garden. Such crops as lettuce, radishes, broccoli, carrots, spinach, peas, and cauliflower fit this description. Many of these vegetables and some others will develop quickly producing large vigorous plants yielding a large second crop during the cool fall days.

Use the bare soil left by harvesting short-season spring crops, or leave space intentionally for this purpose. Empty spaces in gardens tend to accumulate weeds. Efficient consecutive planting provides for a longer harvest and helps keep down weeds. Some plants are tastier when harvested during cool fall weather.

Cool season plants may do better planted in midsummer than in the spring. Plants in the cabbage family such as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage make excellent late season choices because cool weather enhances their flavor and they are frost tolerant. The late season harvest means good eating later into the season than many other crops.

Brussels sprouts, also a member of the cabbage family, may not have enough time to mature if they are planted in July. However, they are very tolerant to frosts. If planted early enough to form small heads before frost, they will withstand hard frosts and may even remain useful after snow melts.

Carrots and beets planted in midsummer will not have time to grow excessively large before harvest. They will be prime for storage rather than surviving the stress of going through the hot season as mature plants. Leaf or head lettuce develops a sweet, mild flavor in cool weather. They will be the best quality in the fall – broccoli and cauliflower do likewise.

If space is not available exactly when mid-summer planting needs to take place, start seeds of plants like lettuce, cauliflower and broccoli in a sheltered location of the garden. Plant the seeds in good soil and seed them in a nursery bed with the rows close together. Transplant them to their growing location as earlier crops mature and are removed. This will save garden space and require less seed.

Midsummer plantings need to grow quickly and vigorously. Take care of the preliminaries to give them the best start possible.

Remove all dead plants and weeds (including roots) from the area to be planted. Till or turn the soil to loosen it and work in organic matter. Fertilizer is most efficiently used when it is banded along the vegetable row. Make a two to three-inch trench and scatter 1/3 to 1/2 cup of 16-16-8 fertilizer for every ten feet of trench. Cover the trench.

Make a seed row two inches to the side of the fertilizer band. The roots of the crops will be nourished by the fertilizer, leaving weeds between the rows to fend for themselves. Nitrogen fertilizer may be needed as a side dressing two to three weeks after planting.

Germination can be a problem in hot, dry summer weather. As the soil surface dries out quickly and crusts, the small seeds have a hard time emerging. Conserve moisture in the soil by covering rows with a light mulch of grass clippings. Water lightly and frequently until the seeds appear. Another option is to cover the row with a 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 boards or burlap strips. Check frequently to see when the seedlings germinate and remove the board. Burlap allows water to penetrate without causing the soil to crust over. Remove the burlap covering when the seeds germinate.

Seedbed covers, made from two long boards nailed together at a 90-degree angle, form an excellent cover to let the seeds germinate. These covers form a “tent” over the row to keep the seedbed moist. Light shelter or shade should be provided during the hottest portions of the very hot summer days until the seedlings are established.

Do not forget to control harmful pests. Maggots will destroy all of the cabbage family and the turnips. Treat the soil before planting with diazinon or chlorban granules if maggots tend to attack your crops.

Perhaps somewhere in the world, the key to successfulgardening is simply dropping seeds into the ground and watching them spring forth. But most garden soils require careful attention and preparation.

Choosing a Plot

A common mistake among beginning and experienced gardeners alike is to plant more than they can care for. A successful vegetable garden plot does not need to be big. A small, well-tended garden will grow as much or more produce than a larger one that the owner cannot keep up with.

Choose a sunny location where water is readily available to create a garden plot. Most vegetables do best in full sun, but if the plot does not receive full sun all day, try to find a place that gets at least six hours of sunlight.

If a plot has never been used as a garden before, it will probably need to be cleared. If grass or sod is growing in the soil, remove it from the plot. Do not try to mix the sod into the soil. Grass roots are tenuous and tightly intermingled, making it difficult to break up and smooth out grass clumps. These clumps may also sprout later and become weeds. Remove large weeds, while tilling under the smaller weeds. Large stones or other foreign objects should be removed from the area leaving a clear area for the garden to grow.

Try to select a spot with good, rich soil. Good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well drained, rich in organic matter, and has a neutral pH. The ideal garden soil composition is about five percent organic matter; twenty-five percent air; twenty-five percent water; and forty-five percent mineral matter with a neutral pH of about seven. Soils in desert areas are alkaline and are not naturally fertile. Plan to work to improve what is there.

Soil Testing

Get acquainted with the soil in the plot. A soil test will reveal fertilizer needs and composition of soil. Soil testing is available for a nominal fee through area extension services and some private testing labs. Soil testing for home gardens is recommended every three to five years.

Soil tests determine the pH, salt concentration and level of nutrients. On a scale with a pH of seven being neutral, many vegetables will grow quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. With the analysis, the lab or extension service will provide information on needed soil improvements.

Topsoil

Although crops prefer a perfect soil, most will adapt and grow satisfactorily in a wide range of soil conditions from sand to clay provided they are handled correctly. Avoid the temptation to haul in topsoil to improve on what is already there. It is almost always better to work with existing soil than to haul in topsoil.

There are no legal definitions for topsoil, so providers can sell soil of nearly any composition and call it topsoil. Hauled in soil may not be any better than the existing soil in the garden plot. It could be a source of noxious weeds with a less than favorable pH or of worse texture than what is there. When fill is needed to raise the level of the yard or to fill in a coarse gravel bed, soil must be hauled in. Be aware that it may or may not improve the area where it is placed.

Soil Texture

The minerals in soil are tiny particles of weathered rock. Texture refers to how the relative sizes of the particle structure deal with their arrangement.

Most soils contain varying sizes of minerals. The relative amounts of sand silt and clay determine the type of soil in your garden. Soil scientists use a soil triangle to illustrate the relative proportions and resulting soil structure. Very large soil particles are sand, medium sized particles are silt and fine particles are clay. The different sizes of the particles do not mesh tightly, allowing for tiny pores between them that allow the water, nutrients and air to move through the soil to the roots. An even mixture of the three makes the best garden soil. Since most soils are not an even mixture, compensate for the parts that keep the garden from producing as it should.

Knowing what type of soil is in the garden makes planning and cultivation easier. Sandy soil, which warms early in the spring and allows water to drain freely, is less likely to compact than other types. However, it does not hold water well.

Clay soil, composed of tiny particles that cling together readily holds moisture and locks air out. Typically it feels heavier than sandy soils because it holds water so well. Roots do not develop as well in clay soils because they have to penetrate the dense material and because they have difficulty getting enough oxygen for optimum growth.

Loam soils contain somewhat equal proportions of sand, silt and clay. Loam soils hold moisture and nutrients around the root zone, and drain well enough to deliver needed oxygen to the roots.

Between the three basic types of soil, very light sand, heavy clay, and loam are other variations – sandy loam, loamy clay, etc.

To determine the type of soil in a garden plot, test it by turning over a shovel full of soil and squeeze it together. If it does not stick together well, the soil is probably sandy, if it forms a sticky ball that does not easily come apart, the soil is clay. Soil that forms a ball, crumbles easily and is not particularly sticky is considered loam.

Optimum plant growth occurs in soils that hold water and nutrients around roots, yet drains well enough to allow oxygen into the area. It should also offer support for plants. Always correct soil imbalances before planting.

Tilling

The effects of watering, settling, and pressure eventually compact the mineral particles in the soil, inhibiting water movement to various degrees. Soil must be loosened to allow air circulation to the roots. Plant roots require oxygen to function properly. Small air holes in loose soil allow efficient water drainage and the introduction and circulation of needed oxygen. Till, fork, or spade soil about eight inches deep to soften it and break up large clods. It is not necessary to over-prepare the soil – marble sized particles can be smoothed away with a rake.

Many gardeners damage soil by rushing to prepare it before it is dry enough. Test to see if the soil is dry enough to work. Take a handful from about three to four inches beneath the surface, and compress it into a ball. Toss it up and down in your hand or drop it on a hard surface. If the ball shatters, the soil can be worked. If it does not shatter, do not try to rototill.

Till as deeply as possible to break up the soil beneath. If a garden is tilled to the same depth each year, a hardpan layer may develop just below the usual tilling depth. Hardpan forms an impermeable “floor” where water accumulates and cannot soak through. Plants do not grow well unless this layer is penetrated and broken up.

Organic Matter

Soils should contain five percent organic material. Nearly all soils, whether clay, sandy or humus, benefit from the addition of organic matter. Spread a layer of organic matter two to three inches thick over the soil surface and incorporate it six to eight inches deep. Organic matter breaks up clay allowing for air and water circulation, and helps hold water in sandy soils. Good sources of organic matter include straw, twigs, leaves, peat moss, sawdust, grass clippings and well-rotted manure.

In sandy soil, almost any type of organic matter will improve its structure and water-holding capability. Use coarse organic matter like sawdust or leaves to lighten clay soils. Peat moss is not a good additive to clay soils because peat moss has great water-holding capabilities just as the clay does. Together they hold too much water.

It may take several years of applying organic matter to significantly improve clay soil, but it is well worth the effort. Be careful in adding sand to clay soil – sand and clay mixed with water form a low grade concrete! The process involves extra work and expense and should only be attempted if adding bounteous organic matter and if organic matter, which breaks down will be added yearly.

Organic matter ties up nitrogen as it decays. Add nitrogen fertilizer to the organic matter to aid in the decomposition process. This addition of nitrogen is not intended to aid future plant growth, but to act as a facilitator to help in decomposition. More fertilizer will be needed when planting. Use one pound (one pint) of ammonium sulfate, or 2/3 pound of ammonium nitrate, or 1/2 pound of urea for each inch of organic matter placed on one hundred square feet of soil.

Manures vary in quality. If mixed with large amounts of bedding materials, there may not be enough nitrogen to decompose it and feed the crop. When using well-rotted manure for organic matter, reduce the fertilizer rate by 1/2.

Soil Amendments

Many areas of the country have acidic soils. If it is determined that your soil is acidic, add lime, gypsum or dolomite to loosen the soil and reduce acidity.

Gypsum is neutral and will not acidify alkaline soils, although it is sometimes promoted as an “alkali fighter.” It can be used in areas of very high sodium soils known as “black alkali” areas where crops grow poorly, if at all.

Little can be done to neutralize alkaline soil, but adding iron sulfate or ground sulfur will help. Iron sulfate alters the pH more quickly than sulfur, but it also breaks down more quickly. Ground sulfur will stay in the soil for years.

Another good way to lower the pH slightly is to add an organic matter such as peat moss, wood chips, leaf mold, or sawdust.

Composting

Composting is the decomposition of organic material into humus. It is a natural phenomenon that gardeners can use to their advantage to improve garden soils. Compost can be purchased or created in a home garden by recycling kitchen and garden waste.

Composted materials make excellent mulches to cover or amend the soil. Using organic waste to make compost makes sound ecological sense. About thirty percent of the waste that reaches the landfill could be composted, lengthening the time that the landfill is useful. In addition, it improves the soil by increasing fertility, water holding capacity, and drainage.

Composting can be a casual or scientific endeavor. Kitchen and yard wastes can be piled up in the garden, but must be allowed time to decompose. More sophisticated systems use containers to turn and mix the material to hasten decomposition.

Organic wastes naturally decompose through microorganisms, insects and earthworms feeding which break it down. To function properly, the decomposing organisms need oxygen, water, nitrogen and heat mixed into the organic matter. If the right amounts of oxygen and water are incorporated, the decomposition takes place rapidly and the mixture produces enough heat to kill weed seeds and plant disease pathogens.

Incorporate air into the mixture to hasten the decay process and keep it from developing foul odors. Turn compost frequently to keep oxygen levels high. The faster the process takes place, the better the source of fertilizer it becomes.

Add nitrogen fertilizer to the composting product to hasten the decomposition process. A ratio of one part nitrogen per fifteen to thirty parts compost is about the right mix.

Using the easiest method of composting, make a pile of organic waste, turn it periodically to keep oxygen levels high and reduce foul odors, and let nature do the rest. The resulting compost will improve soil tilth, but will not be as high in fertilizer value as compost made using more sophisticated methods.

A compost bin makes the process tidier and more efficient. Make the bin about six feet high, and three to four feet square. Use building materials that allow air to get into the composting mixture such as wire, or board slats with air spaces between slats. Add moisture, and a few handfuls of lime each week to speed up the process.

Other sophisticated bins and plans are available. Consult your local county agent for more detailed information.

Mulches

Mulch is spread over the soil surface to keep moisture in and weeds down. Mulch also helps keep the soil from getting over heated or from getting too cold.

Generally, mulches fall into two categories: organic and inorganic.

Organic mulches include materials like bark, shredded leaves, composed products, pine needles, and shredded newspaper. Inorganic mulches include plastic, rock, and landscape fabric. Clear all weeds from a garden before mulching for best weed control.

Organic Mulches

The advantage of organic mulch over plastics and other non-organic types is that organic materials eventually break down and improve soil structure. Mulches are sometimes used in the fall over perennial plants to keep soil temperatures constant. The purpose is not necessarily to keep soil from freezing, but to keep it from an alternating freeze/thaw, freeze/thaw cycle that may heave plants out of the ground, damage roots, or allow plants to break dormancy during a thaw, exposing them to potential damage during a freeze.

When using grass clippings as mulch, scatter them in thin layers allowing them to dry out between applications. Grass tends to clump together and develop mold and other micro-organisms. Spread in thin layers it quickly desiccates and new layers can be added to achieve the proper depth. Grass is not a great soil amendment because it is mostly water and deteriorates very rapidly.

Inorganic Mulches

Inorganic mulches, particularly black plastic and landscape fabrics are good for holding down weeds.

Clear plastic mulches have the specific benefit of warming the soil while holding moisture in. These clear plastics warm the soil more than black plastic. Many garden annuals grow and develop much faster in warmer soil. Planting crops through clear plastic aids in rapid growth and production.

Putting clear plastic over soil provides a greenhouse effect in the early part of the season allowing weeds to spring up under the plastic along with the desired plants. Lift the plastic and hoe or pull weeds while they are small. As the season progresses, the heat that builds up under the plastic will burn off weeds as they emerge. The tops of the plants above the plastic will not get overheated, while the roots beneath the plastic receive needed warmth.

Clear plastic is particularly effective in hastening the progress of melons and winter squash. Melons develop more sugar when they ripen in warm weather

To apply plastic mulches, lay the plastic in place and dig a shallow trench along the edges allowing the edge of the plastic to drop down into the trench. Cover with soil to keep wind from getting under the edges of the plastic and lifting it. In windy areas, rocks or piles of soil can be placed on various spots on top of the plastic to help hold it down.

Cut holes or make x-shaped slits where plants will be placed. Fold flaps on x-shaped slits underneath to prevent the flaps from falling on the emerging seedling and overheating it. Cut holes and slits only as big as needed for plant emergence and development.

If using drip hose, turn the water on for a short time before planting so that you can see where emitters are and make holes in the plastic over the wet spots. Put soil over the edges of the holes to keep wind from getting in through the planting holes. Later in the season, as plants develop and spread, the weight of the plant will keep the plastic in place.